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Post by tddude on Mar 20, 2003 22:52:21 GMT -5
What is that spray stuff "Break Free" good for? When should one use it instead of Hoppes #9. Does it leave a residue that needs to be cleaned off?
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Post by Paradox80 on Mar 21, 2003 14:56:17 GMT -5
It can be used as a cleaner and as oil. The Armorer that frequents the same range as I do doubles as a gunsmith for that shop. He uses Break Free eclusively on H&K's.
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Post by Former MP on Mar 21, 2003 15:45:11 GMT -5
The US Military uses "Break Free" sometimes known as CLP (Cleaner, Lubricant, Protectant).
It is thicker than most lubricants and appears some what milky.
I experienced no problems with the product over a number of years on M-16s, M-60s and 1911s. As always ensure you use only a light coating of lubrication to avoid attracting dust and debris.
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Post by Slick on Mar 21, 2003 16:11:15 GMT -5
I love Break Free as a cleaner, and lubricant. I also rub the outside of my guns down with it after a cleaning and let it sit for a few minutes before wiping it off. It's supposed to "work into" the metal and protect it.  Works for me. There are suppposed to be some superior cleaners out there, but I guess the big green machine brainwashed me... Slick |
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Post by DoubleAction on Mar 21, 2003 17:00:43 GMT -5
I disassembled some of my steel pistols and let them soak overnight in it to condition the metal.I still use hoppes #9 for my bores and stuborn areas like the forcing cone and cylinder faces.
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Magnum
Full Member
Don't sweat the petty things, and don't pet the sweaty things.
Posts: 144
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Post by Magnum on Mar 22, 2003 8:34:41 GMT -5
I haven't used Break-Free myself but a few in my shooting club swear by it for for quick barrel cleaning at the range. I've also never heard anything bad about.
DA: Does Hoppes #9 work pretty good on the flash burn on revolver cylinders, or do you know of something that does?
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Post by tddude on Mar 22, 2003 9:33:03 GMT -5
Thanks for the tips. I've always wondered if "car washing" dirty parts would be easier than shoving bits of cloth into the cracks and crevices of the slide grooves.
Dress Armed
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Post by DoubleAction on Mar 22, 2003 12:24:35 GMT -5
Magnum; On the cylinder faces : I always remove the cylinder and yoke/crane from the frame to clean it.On the blued steel I use Hoppes #9 and a tooth brush or the one made for cleaning gun parts as the military cleaning brush.Because I keep the metal conditioned,the cylinder faces have been cleaning up quite easy.For stainless,these are more stubborn to clean,after using the hoppes I usuallly have to follow up with "Flitz" polishing and cleaning paste using a brush,a fine Brillo pad,or a dremel polishing buffer pad to finish up.The polishing of the face will make cleaning easier for next time, but be careful not to over polish or buff hard.Always follow up by conditioning the metal,this will reduce the adheision of the fouling in the future.And always wipe the gun done throughly before shooting again.
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Post by Misfit on Mar 27, 2003 2:42:20 GMT -5
One product which some may be familiar with is RB-17. It is a greenish-looking gel which was designed for black powder fouling, and works wonders on dissolving caked-on fouling in your barrels and chambers. Also, it is not a harsh and toxic solvent - from what I understand, it is biodegradeable and quite safe to use. It smells pretty nice (although nothing beats the aroma of Hoppe's #9), which is ironic since I understand that horse urine is an ingredient!  |
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Post by sendtoscott on Mar 27, 2003 11:12:39 GMT -5
I just gave my 2 semi-autos a 2 day Break Free soak and put them to bed in their lubricating socks.
I did the cleaning in my guest bathroom, over the tub. I'm thinking that spraying the bottom of a bathtub with a lubricant wasn't the best idea I've had lately. :-)
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